October 31, 2003

Recently, I was explaining to a friend - who has only a casual interest in wine - my contention that Syrah will be the next Really Big red (Sept. 30). He listened politely and said, "OK, fine. But what's the next Really Big white"

For once in my life, I was momentarily speechless. I simply hadn't thought about the next Really Big white. After all, my criteria for Really Big status are: a) There's a lot of it grown, preferably worldwide; b) It has to have what I call "pinnacle wines," which are bottlings universally recognized as profound and emotionally thrilling; c) The grape must grow successfully in a variety of climates and soils; d) The wine has to be "obvious," which is to say that it's not overly subtle or inaccessible.

When you think about it, there simply aren't many plausible candidates to be the next Really Big white.

Oh, there are plenty of swell whites yet to be fully celebrated. But none fulfill all the criteria for Really Big status. Chenin Blanc? A wonderful white grape, but it falls short of most of the above. Sauvignon Blanc might be a contender, as it performs well in many locales. However, it doesn't have pinnacle wines, and it doesn't transform with age the way other Really Bigs do. (You could count the great white Bordeaux, but they're generally blended with significant amounts of Sémillon.)

Forget Gewürtzraminer, Muscat and Viognier: They don't grow well in numerous climates and soils, and they lack multiple pinnacle bottlings. Ditto for Marsanne, Roussanne, Trebbiano, Vermentino, Garganega, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Gris and just about every other white wine variety you'd care to name.

Only one wine qualifies: Riesling.

But nobody wants Riesling, you say. Tut-tut. It may seem that way now. But the business of Really Big is about two things: fashion and economics. Sure, right now Riesling is not ardently pursued. But 30 years ago it was beloved by every stratum of winedom, from experts to Sunday sippers. It's a matter of fashion which – which is, by definition, changeable.

Don't forget economics. To be Really Big, a variety has to deliver high quality at generous yields. If Riesling has a problem, it's that it's overly generous.

Alsace remains the benchmark. Once you've tasted a mature (10- to 15 year-old) Riesling from a top-notch producer, you know why Alsace is the motherhouse of dry Riesling.

Right now, nobody is betting on Riesling. If you say, "Hey, how about putting in some Riesling? It's gonna be the next Really Big white," you'll be classed as a grand cru loony.

Nevertheless, no other white grape fills the bill like Riesling. It's the only possible choice.

"So What's the Next Really Big White?", Wine Spectator, 10/31/03, Matt Kramer